Monday, January 29, 2018
SWAP 2018 cardigan progress
in which our plucky heroine is pleased...
My idea, to reverse the colorway to add contrast to the sleeves, is looking mostly the way I had hoped. It would have been even better had I used a chocolate brown fabric paint to stencil the sleeves, but hindsight is 20/20... One sleeve has all the decorative stitching completed, and now I've begun working on the final sleeve. It took me about a week to do the one sleeve, but that included the several long car trips to and from Olympia, as well as quite a bit of downtime used for stitching whilst I was visiting up there...
Different lighting totally changes the appearance of the pieces, the upper photo is pretty accurate, this one not so much. Still, there was some question on SG about why I basted the edges around my pattern pieces. Actually I baste around the edge, and also around the various motifs, prior to all the permanent hand stitching.
When I begin each pattern piece, I cut out the upper layer of jersey and do whatever painted stenciling is needed, let that dry and be heat set, and then carefully smooth that layer onto the underlayer of jersey fabric, doing my very best to match the grainline of the knit. Then I baste all around the upper piece carefully, before I cut out around the edge to get two matching layered pattern pieces. Once the layers are cut free of the underlayer fabric, I also baste around each of the motifs, so that the underlayer does not shift while I am doing the permanent stitching. When I am finished with all the permanent hand stitching, and have cut out the centers of the reverse applique motifs, I remove all the internal basting, but leave the outer edge still basted until I am ready to assemble the garment. This keeps the edges nice and smooth, and only a little bit curled up.
Jersey fabric has a terrible desire to curl into rolls as tight as rolls of cinnamon bark. I have learned a few ways to deal with that, but it is always a concern. For hemlines, I can add a several inch wide band of jersey fabric to the inside, with the "curl factor" in the opposite direction. For adding folded over narrow binding, it is necessary to heavily starch the strips and iron them into whatever folded configuration is needed, otherwise you just end up with rolled up strips of spaghetti