Monday, January 29, 2018

SWAP 2018 cardigan progress


in which our plucky heroine is pleased...

My idea, to reverse the colorway to add contrast to the sleeves, is looking mostly the way I had hoped. It would have been even better had I used a chocolate brown fabric paint to stencil the sleeves, but hindsight is 20/20... One sleeve has all the decorative stitching completed, and now I've begun working on the final sleeve. It took me about a week to do the one sleeve, but that included the several long car trips to and from Olympia, as well as quite a bit of downtime used for stitching whilst I was visiting up there...
I am eager to start assembling the actual garment! Looking at the pieces together, I am feeling that the edge binding would be best as indigo blue, once I get to that part of the project. Actually, the sketch I did of the cardigan sort of shows a darker binding around the neckline and edges, now that I think of it...

Different lighting totally changes the appearance of the pieces, the upper photo is pretty accurate, this one not so much. Still, there was some question on SG about why I basted the edges around my pattern pieces. Actually I baste around the edge, and also around the various motifs, prior to all the permanent hand stitching.

When I begin each pattern piece, I cut out the upper layer of jersey and do whatever painted stenciling is needed, let that dry and be heat set, and then carefully smooth that layer onto the underlayer of jersey fabric, doing my very best to match the grainline of the knit. Then I baste all around the upper piece carefully, before I cut out around the edge to get two matching layered pattern pieces. Once the layers are cut free of the underlayer fabric, I also baste around each of the motifs, so that the underlayer does not shift while I am doing the permanent stitching. When I am finished with all the permanent hand stitching, and have cut out the centers of the reverse applique motifs, I remove all the internal basting, but leave the outer edge still basted until I am ready to assemble the garment. This keeps the edges nice and smooth, and only a little bit curled up.

Jersey fabric has a terrible desire to curl into rolls as tight as rolls of cinnamon bark. I have learned a few ways to deal with that, but it is always a concern. For hemlines, I can add a several inch wide band of jersey fabric to the inside, with the "curl factor" in the opposite direction. For adding folded over narrow binding, it is necessary to heavily starch the strips and iron them into whatever folded configuration is needed, otherwise you just end up with rolled up strips of spaghetti

8 comments:

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    1. Thank you Ruthie...
      I have been following along your "chocolate collection" and really enjoying the variety of fabrics that all work together in your grouping

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  2. Alison, absolutely gorgeous! You have my fav color combination, very cool! My gosh, what a lot of time it takes, your patience is amazing.

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    1. Thank you Cherie! I am hoping that when it is all completed that it will coordinate with pretty much everything I wear. I am not really patient, in fact, I jokingly say that I stitch to keep calm while on transit! And since there are many days I spend several hours riding the bus or the light rail, I need to stay calm but alert for all that time.

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  3. Stunning. I absolutely understand why you do a lot of basting on this type of work. It makes the end result look perfect in my opinion. Can't wait to see the finished garment.

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    1. Thank you Ann - I don't remember if the Alabama Chanin books talk about basting the layers together, but since I carry this stuff around with me, instead of sitting nicely at a work table, the basting is pretty crucial. While I do enjoy the process, I am getting eager to assemble the cardigan. I may make up a toile of my pattern, probably using some Polartec that is on the shelf in my resource center (stash), to make certain that the sleeves and shoulders fit as I hope. Better to find out beforehand if I need to make any adjustments

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  4. I usually just lurk in the shadows admiring your work, but this is just stunning. I love your creativity and your skill in bringing your ideas to life. Thanks so much for sharing your projects!

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    1. thank you for your compliments, it is always a treat to find out who is actually reading things here! I am glad that you find value in what I have posted about

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