Sunday, November 17, 2013

V1212 bodice muslin xp2

Okay, another week and another muslin... For this one, I didn't bother with the side panels, but cut the fronts as a single piece, and the lower back as well, since the side panels did not add any shaping and were on the same grainline. (I will add them back in once I have the fit adjusted, as they will provide seams to use for shape) The changes I made were: to place the shoulder seam on my centered shoulder line, to take out some of the excess at the back neckline, and convert it to back shoulder darts and then into dart control in the back yoke seam, to reshape the armscye seamline closer to my actual armscye, and to raise the side seam one inch closer to my underarm.

This set of photos I took wearing the muslin over my thickest sweater, which gives a more realistic sizing, but also was rather bunchy in places, as the muslin is not as slippery as my hopeful garment lining will be. The pictures I managed to take with tripod and self timer... really not great, and I tried to adjust them so that the horizontal balance lines were more visible, with limited success:
It looks to me like the center back is a little long compared to my own back, and you can see that the horizontal line is being pulled upward on each side. My guess is that a corrected FBA to the front would bring the balance line back down to where it belongs

The side view really makes it visible the need for a FBA, as the back and front balance lines both slant upwards... I didn't draw them in any particular place on the pattern pieces other than horizontal, since the actual waistline is not on these pieces at all, but on the skirt, so the fact that they do not line up at the side seam is not important, just that they are so very angled upward.

The front view shows somewhat improved front armscye location, but the horizontal balance line makes a visible curve, highest in the center front. I think that the next step must needs be a FBA, as a front pattern piece that is entirely flat wouldn't seem to me to be suitable for even a B cup, much less my own bodacious bosom. Really there just isn't much space between my bust and my waistline, maybe a handspan, so fitted bodices are always a challenge. I am hoping that by adding space in the front, that the side seam will return to vertical. By doing the FBA I can also place the princess seams where they will be of some use...

This is being quite reminiscent, though more complicated, than how I ended up with my TNT tee shirt pattern, which also started out entirely flat in the front, looking more like a sweatshirt, and now fits my shape quite well. I suspect that there will be several more bodice muslins necessary, then it will be on to adapting the sleeves to fit the revised bodice... 'tis a good thing that most of my SWAP is patterns that are already TNT. This sort of faffing about to get things to fit me is why I mostly only sew with the few designs that I have worked out all the fitting issues, as I've had to do this amount of adjustments with every single pattern that I sew. I'd rather have fewer styles, and choose to change up the details and fabrics, than go through this muslin mania more than once every year or two...

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