Wednesday, November 13, 2013

V1212 bodice muslin xp1

in which our plucky heroine girds her loins and begins the process of creating a new TNT pattern from an attractive but flawed big-4 offering... Vogue 1212 is pretty, IMHO, but on first effort and examination the bodice of the pattern has some pretty seriously questionable issues, entirely aside from my own figure quirks...

The front and back bodice have some interesting seamlines, that contrary to my expectations and experience, do not contain any dart control. I know that standard big-4 patterns are drafted for a B cup, but this is bizarre - the princess lines on the front do not add any curvature to the bodice, once the side and center front pieces are sewn together they remain as entirely flat as the paper pattern pieces. This might actually be a good thing, since the princess seamlines are also far far away from the bust point both vertically (which at my age and cup size is to be expected) and horizontally (which I've never seen before).

Since there are some definite in and out curves in my figure, an entirely flat bodice will need to have shaping added... seriously Vogue, and seriously Ms. Betzina, this is a pattern for women, not for prepubescent girls! I'm thinking that the next major step, once I correct the shoulder line and add a little bit of shape to the upper back, is to basically redo the entire bodice front: save the neckline curve so that the collar will fit, and the raised curved waistline so that the pretty flared coat skirts will fit, but give the poor bodice some womanly bosom curves. I don't expect a coat to be form-fitting like a knitwear top, but some gentle shaping will improve the fit, bringing it closer to what I envision.

The first muslin of V1212 bodice, and it is obvious that it needs a lot of modification - the size that "fits" my measurements is indeed far beyond large enough, it is at least 2 to 3 inches larger than necessary even worn over a sweater, and there is quite a lot of other areas that need help too... arrow pointing left shows where I attempted to mark where my actual arm curve is located as well as my actual shoulder; arrow pointing down shows more or less where the side of me is vs where the muslin is way out near my hip curve instead of my waist... even allowing for ease that is really wide, considering how much the skirt of the coat flares outward. I do like the upward curve of the center front and back. I remember this stage when I made my jean jacket years ago, and so am reminding myself over and over not to be too discouraged, but to steadily make one change at a time until it fits comfortably. If I get this pattern to the wearable muslin stage (intended for black denim and corduroy) by the time stitching begins for SWAP I will be a happy camper...

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